Friday, March 20, 2009

Fat: Rhubarb is so pretty

Six months ago we were a dual income family with our pride and our busy schedules and our plans. Now, I'm doing a PhD in home economics, and though Mark survived yesterday's San Francisco Chronicle bloodbath, his spirits and ego and morale have been shredded but good. If you ask me, the writing is on the wall for newspapers. This recession/depression is the Dust Bowl for journalists, and I have no idea where we're all going to end up. Mark watched talented colleagues who've given thirty years to the paper being dumped like migrant day workers following a paint-stripping job. It's enough to make you lose your appetite.

But this is a food blog, and that's the rhubarb king's cake from Jennifer McLagan's Fat, a lovely looking thing that I did not execute quite perfectly. You make puff pastry, mix some frangipane (sugar, almonds, rum, butter), cook rhubarb. Roll out half the puff pastry in a circle, top with frangipane and rhubarb. . .
then top with a larger disc of pastry.  I think I overstuffed it, because juices oozed and made the pastry soggy. I don't have a picture of the finished product; it wasn't a thing of beauty. 

But. . . puff pastry! If I have one thought for these dark days, it's that so long as we can afford the butter, we should all be making puff pastry all the time. I'm always put off by the length of puff pastry recipes but when you actually execute one you realize it contains multiple repetitions of motions any chimp could perform: roll out dough, fold like a letter, put in refrigerator. That's 80% of a puff pastry recipe. And while the rhubarb kings cake did not turn out as I had hoped, the scraps rolled into crispy, sugary palmiers were fit for a queen.

This was also, sigh, the night of the braised oxtail. My stout-hearted father kept saying, don't be a ninny, it tastes just like short ribs. Which it does. The meat was succulent, the flavors excellent, and it's not the fault of the recipe that while I can eat liver, tripe, and marrow the sight of a knobby vertebrae on my plate turns my stomach. This is my second attempt to cook and savor oxtail, and probably my last. 

I also made McLagan's buttery pureed potatoes which were indeed, as she puts it, "worth every calorie." I just wish so-called comfort food really could provide comfort. 


  1. Hello Tipsy Baker,

    I've enjoyed reading your thoughts on my recipes. I am upset that the King's cake didn't work here is how it should look
    and I am emailing you a photo of a slice. From your photo, the filling was too close to the edge, there needs to be a good inch and it is very important that the cooked rhubarb is well drained. I hope you will try it again.
    As for oxtail I wish I could convert you. If you are prepared to try it just one more time make the Chinese-style Oxtail from my first book BONES, with star anise and soy sauce, I'd be happy to send you the recipe.

  2. Hello Jennifer,

    Well, this is funny! The first time an author has commented on my blog, and, as far as I can tell, even read it. Thank you for the note.
    I could see my mistake with the cake once I had put everything in place, but by then it was too late; maybe I will try again. I certainly don't blame the recipe.

    I don't know about oxtail; I seem to have a primal oxtail problem that has nothing to do with flavor. I am very eager, however, to move on to your marrow bones, pork belly, and steak-and-kidney pudding, a dish I have read about in many British novels and, though I have never tasted it, craved. It is just a matter of tracking down the suet.

    Though I will now be enormously self-conscious, thank-you for the note.

    Tipsy Baker/Jennifer Reese

    P.S. I have a copy of Bones, which I love and which is what led me to buy Fat.

  3. "Stout hearted"! What a sweet daughter (I hope you didn't mean "dumb"). Anyway, I really did like the oxtail, the flavor and the satisfying way the meat fell from the bones. Plus, I thought the match with the mashed potatoes and miner's lettuce was perfect. Even the iced vodka fit in well. Finally, the cake may not have looked great or had the perfect texture, but it tasted fine. So, thank you.

  4. I too am fond of oxtail. I always throw a couple in with my beef roasts when I'm planning to make Yorkshire pudding--they throw off a lot of useful drippings, as you no doubt found out. And the meat is so satisfyingly beefy.

  5. I think it's very exciting that a cookbook author commented here! I don't think rhubarb is pretty but it has an interesting color and I thought this rhubarb pie tasted good.

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