Monday, February 13, 2012

And I thought I knew a lot about cookbooks

Hannah Glasse: another gap in my learning

I've tried to figure out how to post in an entertaining way about the Roger Smith Cookbook Conference and can't without resorting to commentary on hairstyles and how people were dressed and that was just so beside the point. The event was about ideas and those ideas were vivid and far more "entertaining" than the clothes, but jumbled and complicated and pointing off in all directions and they're more than I can wrap my head around in this space.

However, these ideas will recur forever in this blog. The conference was a pivotal event for me, confirming what I have always known which is that cookbooks are rich and vital documents, communicating complex messages about much more than gastronomy.

Some scattered reflections:

Over three days, I met and heard from scholars and enthusiasts who are studying copper cookware and African-American foodways and The Settlement Cookbook; who are recreating insane dishes from 16th-century Spanish cookery books and pickling rabbits and have devoted themselves to resurrecting recipes from the work and life of Willa Cather. I saw (but did not meet) Madhur Jaffrey, who is very, very beautiful and fierce-looking, like a queen. I have always cooked basmati rice her way.

I brushed up against the quirky subculture of community cookbook lovers who study spatter marks on the pages of books with names like Eatin' Elko (made up name, but typical) and that was a highlight. Trust me, there are fervid eggheads in archives right now poring over your grandmother's Methodist church cookbook.

The names Eliza Acton and Anna Wecker (good luck with that link) were dropped more often than Dorie Greenspan and Mark Bittman (I didn't hear his name once) in this crowd and everyone in the room just nodded knowingly.  Everyone except me, although I plan to address this gap in my knowledge forthwith.

The Harvard-affiliated cookbook scholar Barbara Wheaton impressed me the most of anybody I encountered. Her depth of learning about cookbooks seemed fathomless, her commentary was acute, commonsensical, and frequently hilarious, and all this from a tiny, gentle grandmotherly presence in jogging shoes*. When someone bemoaned the fact that Americans hardly cook anymore because we are inundated with convenience food, she said, "It means more people who hate cooking don't have to do it and this benefits not just them, but the people who have to eat what they cook."

She also opined that it was more important for a family to sit down together over any food at all than for someone to run around fixing it from scratch. Agree.

Molly O'Neill was eloquent on the current high status associated with rugged cookbooks like Seven Fires and the whole "nose-to-tail" genre. Having one of these "bloody" cookbooks on your coffee table shows you're well traveled, well educated, and have evolved past bourgeois squeamishness. (I'm interested in the class analysis of cookbooks in our "classless" society, though find it ultimately reductive.)

I met Suzanne Fass, the opinionated and outspoken copy editor of my own cookbook, and that was a treat. I was glad to see she was as challenging with the speakers as she was with my manuscript.

Laura Schenone was an earthy and funny speaker, and if I hadn't already read The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken would want to.

Peter Kaminsky cited the grilled steak from Seven Fires and the roasted chicken from Bouchon as perfect recipes and I wrote them down to try as soon as possible.

The Silver Palate was cited reverently, as were Laurie Colwin, Marcella Hazan, Richard Olney (like always) and Madeleine Kamman. (Although one commenter referred to Kamman's specification of "12 grinds of the peppermill" in a recipe as "culinary terrorism.")

A woman in the audience had read Tamar Adler's Everlasting Meal three times, which caused me to order it, though I'm too deep into Middlemarch to read or think about anything else.

On the very last day, I sat on a panel about cookbooks and bookstore events. My terrific copanelists notwithstanding, that was not so much fun. I've been blessed in many ways, but not with the gift of gab. After the panel, I needed to come straight to my room and lie there in a state of traumatized mortification for several hours, fully dressed. Not a high point on which to end the conference, but all better the next morning when I went to the airport. To quote George Eliot: "Will not a tiny speck very close to our vision blot out the glory of the world and leave only a margin by which we see the blot? I know of no speck so troublesome as self."

So true.

Home as of yesterday afternoon. For dinner, I made Nancy Silverton's mussels al forno with salsa calabrese (homemade garlic mayonnaise mixed with a lot of harissa) because it looked so easy and actually was. They were not nearly as good as her other mussel recipe.  My husband cooked the kids hamburgers, because why bother even serving them the mussels? Just a few more days of Mozza and I am trying to figure out the best day for a big pizza blowout. Her crust requires forethought.

Good trip, good to be home.

*just can't stop myself from the clothes.

246 comments:

  1. Hmmm... the two books I checked out from the library the other day were from Bittman and Greenspan (my first look at both of them... before that it was "Tender" and "Super Natural..." I am an average home cook, but following Piglet at Food52 made me want to expand my horizons.) This post gave me some good ideas for my next library visit...

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  2. I love Laurie Colwin's books. She is a wonderful writer. But I have not liked anything I've made from the books, which has me feeling divided. Are her recipes terrible, or am I a culinary prole?

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  3. I also love Laurie Colwin's books, and I have not found anything that I make from her recipes. Her food is not in the league of her writing skills,IMO, which captures the enjoyment of cooking as an experience. What a LOVELY post, Jennifer. I have many new books to explore. Thank you!

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  4. Tamar Adler was at my local Greenmarket after "Everlasting Meal" came out, handing out samples of her bread soup with (I think) cabbage and potatoes. Not what I think of as my kind of thing, but it was so delicious that I filched a second helping. Haven't made it yet, because I always get hung up on the idea of buying a loaf of bread just to let it get stale, but I will, soon.

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  5. What a great post! You may not have the gift of gab, but you have one for writing. I haven't heard of a cookbook conference before--sounds like quite an event. Love the quirky details, the Eliot quote, the self-deprecation, and the book recommendations. Thanks for sharing all this!

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  6. I really, really needed to read that George Eliot quote, today of all days. My sincere thanks for your fascinating review of the conference!

    Kara

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  7. I had to bribe/threaten my two daughters to eat a single mussel each when they were kids, so I was astonished when, upon serving mussels one Sunday dinner to my three step-kids, they gobbled them up with delight, asking if we could have them again soon. I plan to try making them in my pizza oven next!

    I personally hated Tamar Adler's book--it seemed so pretentious to me, like she was very self-consiously trying to sound like M.F.K. Fisher or at least someone else, most likely someone older and wiser that Tamar Adler. She kept trying to be very poetic. I'm not a good writer, so it's hard for me to explain why her book irritated me so much. I'd love to hear your thoughts. I think a lack of a sense of humor or self-deprecation is probably a big part of why I didn't like her writing--she's the anti-Jennifer Reese!

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  8. God, I didn't even know there were cookbook conferences. It sounds like fun to a point but three days of it would wear thin, I suspect.

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  9. If it makes you feel better, I had to leave the last session and watch from my room like a shut-in...and I wasn't even presenting! :) Those spaces were so claustrophobic, weren't they? Oh, and I forgot to mention on the last comment: we have cepavi in PDX. Shorter trip for you!

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  10. @Kristin -- "pretentious" is the very word that summed up my feelings about Adler's website (I don't have her book). There was a smugness about the (wordless) videos -- and how the hell does someone that young get an apartment like that?! (OK, maybe it's all just envy.) I did think the idea of cooking all your produce the moment you get home from the market is a good one (if not very practical). But the subtitle of her book? Cooking with "economy and grace"? Economy I can get behind. Cooking with grace? Ugh.

    Some of the articles she features struck me the same way. Read this interview duet with a cooking buddy, and I defy you not to think of Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein having this conversation in a "Portlandia" sketch.
    http://grist.org/food/2011-12-20-now-were-cooking-how-to-get-americans-back-in-the-kitchen

    And Jennifer, I loved your shout out to your copy editor. I'm a member of that club by profession, and it's rare to hear our praises sung!

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  11. Ouch! Okay, I promise not to make you be on any more panels! - Celia

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