Friday, January 02, 2009

Writing in Cookbooks

My mother used to inscribe brief, declarative comments in her cookbooks along the lines of "SUPER!!!" Or "NO." She used a pencil and has a naturally neat hand.

I thought this was just the coolest thing. I don't know why. Maybe because I fetishize books, especially cookbooks, and writing in them implied a more active, passionate relationship than what is usually available to the passive reader?

For thirty years, I have written in all my cookbooks. They are not "lightly used." They are trashed. About ten years ago, I considered desisting -- how would I, or my heirs, ever sell my growing collection if I had defaced all the books?

Well, there are many answers to that question. First of all, most of my cookbooks aren't worth much to anyone but me, and I don't write in my (few) valuable, antique volumes. And I think cookbooks are meant to be used. How would I ever remember what I thought of a dish unless I wrote it down? 

I can read my life story in these annotations.  From (picked at random) prim middle-school notations when I was trying to be just like my mother:

 to effusive, sloppy adulthood:

I'd be interested to hear how other people relate to their cookbooks. Do you keep them pristine on cookbook stands? Do you use them as cutting boards? Is writing in them a sacrilege? 

85 comments:

  1. I like my cookbooks like I like my houses--old and full of memories. So I write in mine and don't worry about stains or water spots--I'd much rather inherit a cookbook that had very obviously been well-used.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Me too, i write in them, though when i have a brand new one or a very glossy one i always feel a little nervous about it, so sometimes i start with pencil but once it's been defaced i use pen from then on. i usually also note who i served the food to, in part cause it will help me remember the dish, and also so it will remind me if i've already made a particular thing for someone. apart from just liking to make annotations, I feel like they make the cookbooks much more useful to me and hopefully to the person who will inherit or buy them someday- cause even the best cookbooks have some duds and some stars. Though TB is like the ultimate annotation, i think if i got bombay kitchen i might just print out your posts on that book and stick them in there, or something.

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  3. If you don't write in your cookbooks, how do you know how the recipes went over (more than a few have "never again!" scrawled across the top) or how you fiddled with them as you worked? Some of my books are so stained and batter-spattered (the chocolate layer cake page in Susan Purdy's cake book comes to mined) that I am sure they are health hazards. No matter.

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  4. thanksalot1/3/09, 6:53 PM

    I guess it does make it more interesting to wrte in cookbooks.

    ReplyDelete
  5. When doing my best cooking, I use cookbooks only as guides and adjust the recipe to my tastes. This makes writing in the cookbook essential for me. For Harry Potter fans: I'm reminded of Snape, the master potion maker, who wrote notations all over his Potions textbook when in school. Recipes are like potions to me -- always room for improvement, or the need to tweak the recipe to reflect seasonal ingredients, or one's personal tastes or unique cookware/stove/oven etc.

    Amy in Berkeley

    ReplyDelete
  6. helltoupee1/5/09, 8:46 AM

    Like Amy, I use cookbooks more as a guide or inspiration. There are few recipes I've not changed so there are many marks in my books. I invite a wide variety of people over to try my menus so I also keep a separate binder of dinner parties where I list the dishes, wines, quest list (and their reviews,) and even a compulsive little map of who sat where at the table.

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  7. Melvil Dewey1/5/09, 10:51 AM

    I really like writing in my cookbooks, and I do it whenever I have time. The morning after a big dinner party, I enjoy sitting down with a cup of coffee, reflecting back on the cooking and writing down how things went. Cooking a particular dish rarely goes as smoothly as a recipe might lead one to expect, and my annotations help me clarify steps and remember the things I learned along the way. My cookbooks are very well-worn. The better the cookbook, the more beaten-up it is. And the books open right up to the most frequently used recipes, because those are the pages most warped by water and most caked in flour and other accretions of food. For example, "How to Cook Everything" opens up to Mark Bittman's biscuit recipe. I agree with you, Tipsy, that writing in a cookbook shows a deeper engagement with the book. I like it when my cookbooks talk to each other (as when, for example, I'm comparing many different recipes for the same dish), and writing down my thoughts or impressions is my way of talking back to the cookbooks.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Almost Anonymous1/7/09, 2:10 PM

    I feel slightly ashamed that our cookbooks are relatively pristine. Means we don't use them enough. We have some cooking magazines that have notes in them. And take-out menus. Do they count?

    And what happened to the post about Safeway? I liked that one! Don't tell me the Magowans got to you...

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