"Buttermilk biscuits have always been the staple breakfast bread of the South," Louis Osteen reminisces in his Charleston Cuisine. "I remember my grandmother, up early on her farm, gently kneading the lard into the flour. . ."
Biscuits have recently become the staple breakfast bread of a household in Northern California. I will always remember my daughter, up early in her suburban home, gently kneading lard substitutes into flour. . .
Isabel's biscuit-making began this summer with the 1-2-3 biscuits (fat: vegetable oil) out of Best of the Best from Alaska, which we loved. Then she moved on to the cream biscuits (fat: butter) from Alice Waters' Art of Simple Food, which we loved even more. I would describe Waters' cream biscuits as possibly too delicious.
Today Isabel baked Osteen's buttermilk biscuits (fat: butter; what happened to granny's lard?) which were tall and fluffy and tasty, though probably not too delicious. I consider this a point in their favor.