Time magazine recently described Guatemala City as "a gloomy capital that no amount of marimba music can brighten." I wouldn't disagree. This place feels nervous and buttoned-up and edgy, much more so than I remembered it from my last visit.
But our family here is lovely, and has been hosting us and feeding us delicious meals (chicken stew, tortillas, bunuelos) and keeping my mother well-supplied with exotic candies that I keep filching. The candies are made from coconuts and figs and spaghetti squash and sweet potatoes, everything BUT chocolate, and I love them. The best candies in Guatemala are made in the town of Antigua, where we are going to be staying for the next five days. I don't know what the internet situation is at our cousin's house, but if there is a signal, I will have a lot to report.