Sunday, January 31, 2010

Bread update

As requested by a few commenters, the other day I baked the Moro bread (left) substituting whole-wheat for some of the white flour. For comparison, I also made a loaf of Jim Lahey's no-knead wheat bread (right).  (As many of you know, Lahey is the New York City baker behind the "no-knead" bread popularized by Mark Bittman a few years ago. )

Lahey uses a 3:1 ratio of white to wheat flour, a proportion he came up with after much experimentation. To make his bread, you mix the dough roughly then let it sit for 18 hours. After this you shape it into a round, let it rise for 2 hours, and bake in a Dutch oven. I wish I'd photographed the bread when it emerged from the oven, as it was a dark and noble loaf.
 
Because the 3:1 ratio worked for Lahey, I used a 3:1 ratio of white to wheat flour in the Moro bread. It took longer to rise than usual -- maybe 6 hours -- but otherwise worked beautifully. And it was better than the Lahey bread -- chewier, crustier, tastier. I don't understand how this can be, as they contain the same ingredients and it goes against all logic that the "quick" bread would be better than the long-risen. But it was better. The vote among four tasters was unanimous.  

Speaking of voting, Isabel and her friend Juliet have taken to playing Top Chef, and today I got to judge. The ingredient was flour tortillas, and here's one of the more appetizing dishes they presented: plain boiled macaroni on tortilla strips garnished with cold tomato paste. 
 Yum. Especially the unwashed lettuce.

80 comments:

  1. I *love* that your daughter plays Top Chef. I'm sure that you're one proud mama!

    ReplyDelete
  2. The Moro recipe makes an excellent rye bread at the 3:1 ratio. (I use Red Mill's Dark Rye flour with about a tablespoon of caraway seed per loaf.) Otherwise, the Lahey/Sullivan St. recipe has better texture, crust, and overall flavor than Moro, in my testing.

    ReplyDelete
  3. AzureSong -- Yes, it is funny to watch. But they need to learn to clean the kitchen.
    Je -- Interesting. I was going to try rye next.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Lovely coincidence...I was going to try mixing in some whole wheat this week, as I'm running low on white flour. So thanks in advance for saving me possible mistakes! By the way, I've settled on 6 cups of flour as the perfect amount for my particular flour and measuring system. This is truly wonderful bread.

    ReplyDelete
  5. The Mother Earth News recipe (with double the yeast it calls for) works great with a 2:1 white to wheat ratio. I've got to try the Moro with wheat today.

    I think Isabel gets full marks for presentation.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Je: I went and examined our breads (Lahey and Moro) just now. I think the Lahey whole wheat crust has held up better over time, it's still firm, but it's also very thick, almost leathery. Technically, that is probably better. But I think it is too thick and tough for the purposes and tastes of the people in my household. Also it has the slightest charred flavor, which could be my fault.
    Moro crust is hard and crunchy on day one, which is great, and then becomes unobtrusive with time, making it better for kid sandwiches, which is the lowly purpose of much of our bread.
    AC: Good luck!

    ReplyDelete
  7. When a Moro loaf is fresh and warm, everyone here wants a slice because of that wonderful crust. But interest drops off quickly, and I threw out many day-old loaves until I cut the recipe in half and began baking one loaf at a time. I still prefer it for sandwiches or croutons, though - it's a good blank slate. I think it might even be better than the Lahey recipe for denser breads, but I'm still experimenting with that.(Curiously, our cat loves fresh Moro, but won't touch any other bread.)

    Tipsy, how do you bake your Lahey recipe? I place the dough in a 7" cake pan placed inside the Le Cruset, which holds the dough in shape, and thus less crust surface.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Je -- I baked that last Lahey bread in my Le Creuset, which is too big. That was another problem. The ratio of crust to middle was too high and if it had been a in a smaller vessel it would have kept its shape and worked better. I think a cake pan inside a Le Creuset sounds like a brilliant solution and I will try it next time.
    You have one civilized cat!

    ReplyDelete
  9. I agree that the crust on the moro bread declines after the first day, but put it in the toaster- THE BEST TOAST EVER. The crust revives perfectly, and the flavor gets a little carmelly. Delicious!

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  10. I love the idea of playing top chef. except that is one nasty looking meal. what did the other contestant come up with?

    ReplyDelete
  11. Ok, I just made the Moro bread with wheat flour- 5 cups white, 2 1/3 cups wheat, and 4 tsp kosher salt. The dough was sticky as described, and the bread is perfect, though i'd still up the salt, maybe to 4 tsp. The only problem, it's too tasty right out of the oven. I just ate a quarter loaf spread with butter and salted, and i'm trying hard not to have any more.

    ReplyDelete
  12. So, I finally made the Moro bread (the whole wheat version.) I don't think it is quite as good as the Cooks Illustrated Almost No Knead bread which is the only other bread I have ever made, but it is much simpler and easier and yummy! I just have a few question about the recipe. What type of yeast: active dry or rapid rise? I used active dry because it was in the house. "Mix until smooth and dry" is very vague. I assume stand up mixer with a dough hook. What speed? For how long? I choose speed 2 for 5 min. I didn't get any pretty bubbles and I'm wondering if I mixed for too long or too short. Finally, there was no "easing" my dough out of the bowl into the pans. It was a fight to the death! It was still good though. Two of us ate a whole loaf last night!

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