Sleeping it off in Rapid City

Indian taco, eastern Idaho. 

I intended to blog regularly on this vacation, but internet access has been nonexistent in the campgrounds and cabins where we've been staying. And now that we're in the posh Mt. Rushmore Holiday Inn with wifi, I can't remember any of the fascinating things I was saving up to say.

Vacation has been excellent so far, though has involved far too much driving.

A few things: 

1. I've been trying to track down local honey at our various stops, and only just today managed to find my first  jar -- at a gas station in Sheridan, Wyoming. The gift shops at Yellowstone sold Wyoming "honey" but it was doctored with berry flavors, which is ALL WRONG! I want to taste the local flowers, not "grizzlyberry."

2. Speaking of Yellowstone: amazing. 

3. One of our chickens died. The neighbor boy who is caring for them called and said he found the bird outside our fence, lying face down in the grass with a bloody beak. He doesn't know what happened. I suspect a cat. 

4. Not food-related but my review of Reality Check by Peter Abrahams is here. He's my favorite suspense writer, though as I say in the piece, this isn't his best book. 

When it's not grotesque and/or tragic, Nevada is fun

We're on our family road trip, currently in the Nevada phase of the ordeal  joyful odyssey. Since this is a food blog, I'll try to restrict myself to interesting eating experiences which, given our itinerary (Idaho, Wyoming, and South Dakota) will mean short posts. 

As many of you probably know, Nevada is known for its Basque restaurants, and in Reno last night we hit Louis'. I was too shy to photograph inside the restaurant, so I will describe: communal tables, waitresses in what I took to be Basque peasant garb, faux-wood paneling, and a hearty set menu featuring Wednesday's appetizer: tongue. The platter of tongue, partially submerged in what appeared to be wine sauce, was removed from the communal table twenty minutes after it appeared, essentially untouched. This was sad. I love that they serve tongue, but it doesn't mean I can eat it. There was also a mountain of french fries, a tureen of soup tasting of bouillon cubes, a salad, beans and sausage, steak, and dry Jack cheese to finish. 

Food wasn't great, but we felt better giving Louis our money than, say, Denny.

Alaska: Anchorage

Oh, how I have missed blogging. I would have blogged every day of this strange and fascinating vacation if internet connections had been more reliable in some of our farflung destinations -- and if the food had been more noteworthy. Mostly, our Alaskan meals have involved overflowing plastic baskets of frozen crinkle-cut french fries, soupy cole slaw, and Coffee-mate. 

But here's my question: If the food is so crummy why am I returning home resembling one of the ectoplasmic humanoids from Wall-E ?

I think we know the answer: I am a fool for frozen crinkle-cut french fries.

 

Today, I lunched on caribou stew. Okay, not a high point, but worth a try and a photograph (see right.) We also watched a film about an Eskimo whale hunt in which the raw whale -- sliced on screen, on the beach -- resembled the most beautiful, pale pink sushi. Everyone else in the audience was gasping and hiding their eyes and I was thinking, hmm. . . . it looks kind of appetizing.

Yes, I was ashamed of myself.

 

Alaska: Seward

This is the not-so-great part about our stay in Seward, Alaska: The Van Gilder Hotel. It is historic and pretty in an eccentric European way, but I would rather sleep in a really sterile Holiday Inn Express, or better yet, a super-expensive Marriott. People cook in the communal kitchen and the reek of fried onions reaches all the way to the third floor, where we have been staying. The "extra" beds for the children are tiny Murphy units that fold out over the bureaus. It is VERY crowded in our small rooms. The first night, we had to use a communal toilet. I have become SUCH a princess in my middle age. I am trying to remember when I became fussy about hotels, and I think it dates to a story I edited about five years ago, which I do not recommend you read if you are at all suggestible.

 

However, a 90-second stroll out the shabby front door of the Van Gilder and you are facing views like this one. There are snow-capped mountains and glaciers everywhere you turn, and sea otters and seals flopping around in the bay. It is a little austere, cold and marine for me -- I prefer Denali and its meadows and lakes -- but the Kenai Peninsula is undeniably beautiful. Yesterday, we walked to a glacier. Today, we're heading out on an all-day cruise that will take us to more remote glaciers and fjords. 

As for the cuisine. . . I had a caribou medallion for breakfast yesterday. It was delicious! This morning: elk.

Alaska

We are on vacation in Alaska, hence the dearth of posts. I haven't been cooking or drinking so what can I write that belongs in Tipsy Baker?

Alaska is amazing. I could type a long list of clicheed superlatives that would express my thoughts and feelings about this incredible state. But I'll skip the list; you've read it before.

I have but a single complaint: The food in Alaska is expensive and absolutely terrible!