Tuesday, March 10, 2015

He will be reading it again and again!

Darling, would you like a little yeast gelato?
You could feel it coming, but that was still a really jarring Piglet win for Fancy Desserts and the Bill Buford review did nothing to persuade me that it was justified. I came away thinking it was even less justified than I had going in.  

I have a miserable list of errands and jobs today, but some half-baked thoughts before I go. I may change my mind about everything, so cut me slack:

*It’s possible Headley's victory reflected gender bias as laid out in the Helen Rosner essay, given that the book was advanced three times by men who seemed thoroughly dazzled by his prose style and rocker persona. Buford on Fancy Desserts: “It is humble. It is brave. It is extreme. It is wacky. It is by far the best anti-cookbook cookbook I have ever read. I will be reading it again and again. It is genius.”

Perhaps Headley should be considered for the Nobel? He sure can make those boys gush. 

Then again, Rosner, no dummy, also loves the book. I should refrain from commenting further on its literary merits until I have actually sat down and read it cover to cover.

*Does the win for an “anti-cookbook” that few people will actually use (a fact, trust me) reflect growing boredom with affable mainstream voices and cookbooks? Maybe a variant of the boredom described in the Lottie + Doof essay? Have we been so saturated with food everything that we’ve reached some kind of decadent, late-stage ennui where it’s not enough for a cookbook to be a nice, usable volume of good recipes, it has to be a crazy, rule-breaking, dysfunctional, super-stimulating anti-cookbook? 

*The recipes are sloppy. I’ve already talked about the failed chocolate chip cookies. I mixed Headley’s yeast ice cream yesterday morning because I had the ingredients and 10 minutes and what the hell. He calls for 1/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon yeast//36 grams. I measured 36 grams and looked at that mountain of yeast and thought, this is more than 1/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon. It was. It was a third again more. I know I gave Mimi Thorisson a pass on the little errors I spotted in her book, but it’s extra aggravating when you stumble on a mistake in the middle of cooking. This is the second time it’s happened with Headley.

Also: why would you say 1/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon when you could say “3 tablespoons?” 

Or am I being petty to care about something like that when considering a humble, brave, extreme, wacky work of genius?

It’s possible I am. But I don't think so!


A report on the yeast ice cream and maybe more fully-baked thoughts coming soon.

59 comments:

  1. So Fancy Desserts is the winner of . . . what, exactly? Does it matter? I think the Piglet process is a great time.

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    Replies
    1. It is a great time - and talking about it is part of the great time.

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    2. Anonymous #1, if you're trying to gently inform me that the Piglet is basically meaningless and rehashing is a monumental waste of time and that my blog posts of late have been of interest to only the tiniest sliver of humanity, if that, tell me something I don't know.

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    3. Jennifer, your writing is such a continual delight. How glad I am to have found your book and your blog. Your reply to Anonymous #1 made me laugh loud and long. We are a tiny sliver of humanity, it's true, but we are mighty in our appreciation of you.

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    4. Your posts have been wonderful and of great interest to many! I am grateful to the Piglet for inspiring so many great posts from you.

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    5. This is Anonymous #1, and no, no, no! Piglet is meaningful because it generates so much meaningful discussion. Look what we got to talk about this go-round: sexism, reading cookbooks vs. cooking from cookbooks, what generates intense yet fleeting interest vs. what looks a bit boring but will be around for the long haul. And your forum is where I come for all that. Keep up the good work.

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    6. Oh good! I know what you mean, cookbooks during this Piglet became a vehicle for talking about a lot of other interesting things. Things that are, perish the thought, more interesting than cooking.

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  2. I wonder if yeast density varies as much as, say, salt density. That would explain the 33% discrepancy you saw between weight and volume measurements.

    Doesn't explain the cookie recipe, though.

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    Replies
    1. I had wondered about that. I should see if he specifies a brand of yeast. The chocolate chip cookie was a straight-up mistake. Mistakes happen.

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  3. This really is an upset, partially because Buford (whom I otherwise respect and admire) gave it the win with a kind of swaggering bravado that really said nothing. Shouldn't the RESULTS of a cookbook be what we deem genius, humble, brave, blah blah, rather than the attitude of the author? I agree with and love your comparison of Lebovitz's book to "The King's Speech," though I love this book (and Lebovitz) despite that (or perhaps because of that). If Buford's review had been as thoroughly and joyfully written as Christensen's yesterday, he might have convinced me. But as it stands, it feels like a decision made entirely on style with little regard for substance -- especially since he himself said he'll "read" it again and again, but seemed doubtful that he'd ever actually cook from it.
    The Helen Rosner essay provides an interesting context for this, as you say.

    Well, this year's Piglet has been a real treat, even with all this. I've loved discussing it here with others who are also following it, and the controversy has been compelling. I think that Lottie and Doof's essay makes a good point, and I agree that it is worth thinking about again in light of this verdict.

    Just the thought of "yeast ice cream" makes me gag. I'll be curious how it turns out.

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    Replies
    1. Agree with everything you say, including your appreciation of Lebovitz. I've had so much fun with the Piglet this year. It's been really interesting and lively and they did a great job with judges, in the main. I love this event. Thanks for being so friendly and talkative on the blog. I always enjoy your comments.

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    2. Thanks! I can't believe I am going to say this, but I bought Mimi's book. I am in the camp that feels it has too many photos (that frankly do turn me off), but I am in need of learning some French classics and, based partially on what you've said, I decided her book will be of use. I don't think it's written for American tastes, and she does have something both classic and contemporary about what I gather are even very traditional French dishes. (A lot of Julia Child's recipes seem dated to me now, and I struggle to be inspired by her classic books -- I know this might be heresy! -- and Lebovitz and Greenspan somehow seem "Americanized" in their approach. Both useful, but somehow Mimi does something different. At least it seems this way.) So this whole shenanigan has bought her book sales, and I can't imagine I am the only one saying so!

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    3. There's a certain texture to her book and recipes that feels really, really French. I know exactly what you're talking about. The two recipes I didn't get to that really drew me were the sugared almond tart and the gateau basque. And the Sarah Bernhardt cakes.

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  4. Yeast ice cream sounds atrocious.

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    Replies
    1. Yeah, I know, but I sort of had to.

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    2. I twisted your arm, didn't I?

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    3. You sent me nougat. I had to. And I'm not sorry.

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  5. My issue was that I don't think Buford cooked from the damn thing. It would be one thing were it a competition for books about food, but it's a COOKBOOK competition.

    It started so well too. He had obviously cooked a lot but the Lebovitz book and I was heartened and then...annoyed.

    It was very much like the prom queen declaring her love for the smart sensitive guy only to be pushed aside when a guy on a motorcycle rides up.

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  6. I love your last paragraph. So true.
    He basically did no cooking -- it was strange. And it's not like everything in BH is tremendously hard.

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  7. Seems to me that despite Buford having chosen Fancy Desserts, most of the people who read the essay will rush right out to buy the Lebovitz book. That would have been my reaction . . . except that I already own it. And yeah, I think it's some macho backlash. The iron is hot, Guy Fieri! You and your "bad boys" should strike now!

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    Replies
    1. Ha! I already own a signed copy as well :) The Piglet did bring me Baking Chez Moi and Flavor Flours. And probably Smashing Plates in the near future.....

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    2. I agree. This is good news for all the cookbooks, probably.

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  8. Yeast ice cream.....grossssssss but I know why you did it. I HATED that review. The best thing about the Piglet this year (aside from the juicy gossip) is Flavor Flours from Alice Medrich. I cannot get enough of that book.

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    Replies
    1. I have noticed! What is it in particular that you like?

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    2. Alice Medrich can write a damn recipe....everything I've made has turned out well....stay tuned for a great picture of the majorlaine on the blog. It's my new favorite cake.

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    3. Oh good, I can't wait to see it.

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  9. Ooof. I am just glad it's all over.

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  10. Except that the other Tournament of Books at the Morning News (which preceded the Piglet by some years) is just beginning! http://www.themorningnews.org/tob/
    (This year, once I finish Jenny Offill's Dept. of Speculation, I will have finished all of 1 book out of the 16 in the tournament, but it's a good read even then!)

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    Replies
    1. Ha! What a coincidence. Dept. of Speculation is on hold for me at the library. I'm picking it up this afternoon.

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    2. I'm enjoying it so far. It's spare and elliptical but also accessible. I like that the story is so pared down. I'm curious to hear what you think.

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    3. "Dept. of Speculation" didn't work for me at all. I thought it read like a poor man's David Markson novel. Enjoyed Offill's picture book "Sparky!", though!

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    4. It's short, Dept. of Speculation. I was surprised and glad. I'm 40 pages from the end of My Struggle, vol. II and it's been like swimming the Atlantic. Offill is next.

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  11. Thank you for this. As I think about the review, it seems to me that when all is said and done. Roberts judged them to be fairly equal in recipe quality. Therefore, it feels unfair that he got personal in his judgement of Thorisson's looks and "lifestyle" while hius admiration for Headley's shtick led to a judgement of "superior writing" with no real justification for that pronouncement. (Full disclosure: I haven't physically seen or cooked from either book).

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    Replies
    1. They're both good books, but Thorisson's contains more recipes most people would actually cook.

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  12. Ugh, well I guess I saw that win coming, with the way all the previous reviewers were gushing about Fancy Desserts. Part of me is just like, didn't we already do this "punk rock pastry" thing 15 years ago with Elizabeth Faulkner?

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    Replies
    1. What happened to her? I used to go to Citizen Cake all the time when I worked near there.

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    2. I think she moved to New York? I actually did an internship there about ten years ago so I have equal parts nostalgia for CC and embarrassment from basically screwing up the whole time I was there. But she totally was a leader of the last "cool pastry" wave! And they made EVERYTHING in-house, it was awesome.

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    3. Emmy, we probably crossed paths. Ten years ago was around when I went there on a weekly basis. Sometimes more.

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    4. Haha, well if you ever saw a really sweaty girl in chef pants walking to and from the BART station, that was me!

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  13. I just want to say that, while I know of the Piglet competition, I would never have known of all the flap were it not for your fabulous blog. What fun this has been, and really thought-provoking. Jennifer, thank you for all the links, etc. I have way too many cookbooks already, so I like anything that can help me avoid a purchase based on publicity. I simply cannot wait to see your blog show up in my email and wish it did every single day! It's the nut on my tea cake (Miss Brill again). Thank you!

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    Replies
    1. I read Miss Brill after your last comment a while back. What an incredible little story. I'd never read anything quite like it & it made me want to read the whole collection.

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    2. This is Anonymous #1 again: I am the reader who thought that the story of Miss Brill was so sad. I think I have finally found my online identity as Anonymous #1. I am also the reader who waits breathlessly for the Best American Sports Writing each year.

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    3. Miss Brill is so sad, Anonoymous #1. Miss Brill out there enjoying in her day, feeling at one with humanity, then getting the glimpse of how she looks to others. It was profound. And then that strange last sentence. Really something.

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  14. I just wanted to say that I made a pared down version of this recipe from Prune: https://food52.com/recipes/34245-braised-green-cabbage-with-anchovies-and-garlic
    Did not use cheese or butter and did not cook it nearly as long as the recipe suggests but I inhaled the entire half cabbage in one sitting. Delicious.

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    Replies
    1. I'll try it for sure. I need more vegetable recipes.

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  15. I would not have found your blog if not for the Piglet controversy this year. I, too, am in that small sliver of humanity that lives for it each year- I watch all the Oscar's best picture nominees, read as many Piglet cookbooks as I can get my hands on and then tap my maples right about now to make syrup. This little trifecta has made winter in Wisconsin these last few years bearable, and even, dare I say it, enjoyable! Now I am off to read more of your archives....

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    1. I love that -- maple syrup, Piglet, Oscars! I was all over the Oscars this year, too. Even saw most the short films. Then Boyhood lost. . . boo.

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  16. Thanks to The Piglet controversy for throwing up some interesting views on sexism, and diversity (lack of it) in the food blogging world. Ironically, amid accusations of propagating the 'perfect woman' myth, Mimi Thorisson herself has become a victim of the homogeneity prevalent in food blogging, her old school, 'grandma style' (she says as much herself in a event post, The Grandma Lunch') at odds with that of the 20-something urbanites who dominate this world. As someone who cooks for a family every day, it is Mimi's 3 course meat and potatoes menus that speak to me, and a few others judging by her popularity!

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    1. I'm unfamiliar with the 20-something urbanite food bloggers and I was curious, reading the Lottie and Doof essay, whose work he was talking about. Do these blogs focus on quinoa, kale, and cupcakes?

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    2. "Do these blogs focus on quinoa, kale and cupcakes?"
      All of the above, and beets, tacos, bacon, pasta, rice bowls, vegetarian ethnic dishes...Absolutely nothing wrong with that, but there is a place for big family cooking - meat or fish, a starch, veg and pudding. I can't think of many blogs other than Mimi's that inspire me to cook a 3 course meal, where everyone pitches in, and you linger around the table for hours. I do enjoy Michael Ruhlman's annual post about cooking for a crowd, there is definitely a gap in the food blogging universe.

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    3. So things you might cook for you and your boyfriend. One dish.
      I think I probably cook more that way than Mimi's way, if only because no one in my family likes to eat. I used to cook bigger, heartier meals, but there was no percentage in it. I finally just quit trying. What about Pioneer Woman?

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    4. I'm not familiar with Pioneer Woman, will certainly have a look. One pot dishes do have their attractions, I would probably eat like that too if I only had myself to feed.

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