Saturday, February 04, 2012

Own too many cookbooks, watch too much TV



I predicted Food52's annual Tournament of Cookbooks would end in a showdown between some combination of Tender, Super Natural Every Day, and MozzaI was so wrong. 

I basically just picked the books I knew. That was feeble. I am now educating myself on the three titles left standing. They are:  

1. Joe Beef. Bought it. Tremendous book.  Love everything about it from the writing to the bison taxidermy to the absinthe glasses. I love everything about it except . . . the food. The photograph of the trussed fish with milky eyeballs on page 33 turns my stomach, as do shots of the marrowbones stuffed with vegetables and the whelks with escargot butter. Here is a short list of the recipes in the book that trigger nausea: horsemeat topped with a fried egg, Velveeta eclairs, chicken skin jus, chicken skin tacos, mackerel benedict, squid stuffed with lobster, cornflake eel nuggets, pork fish sticks, Jerusalem artichokes with ketchup. 


And yet I can absolutely see why this big, engrossing book has fared so well in the Tournament and think it probably deserves to win. It just doesn't make me hungry.

2. Milk Bar. We're having a long-planned party tonight for which my friend Lisa and I are making David Chang's famous pork dish. (The meat has been in the oven for 5 hours now and hopes are high.) This seemed the right occasion to try a dessert from Milk Bar, so Isabel baked a batch of the compost cookies (choped pretzels, ground coffee, potato chips, chocolate chips, butterscotch chips) last night. I am predicting they will be great. I completely endorse Kim Severson's decision to advance this book, however wacky, unhealthy, and impractical, over Nigel Slater as I am less enamored of Tender than the indignant commenters at Food52.

3. Mourad. By coincidence, Owen and I ate at Mourad Lahlou's restaurant, Aziza, the other night. (We are trying to eat at every restaurant on Geary Boulevard in San Francisco, in order, and Aziza was next.) The meal was delicious, but really expensive. I was going to buy the book for $40 from the restaurant, but after paying $28 for a single exquisite short rib, decided to wait until I got home and order it for $20.11 from amazon. I find the book cold, forbidding, and cheffy and sort of regret the purchase.

Which of the three will take the gold? I predict Joe Beef, but my record is not good.

And now, veering off from cookbooks: After our Aziza dinner, Owen and I went to see Albert Nobbs. You should see this sweet movie; don't let the hideous previews turn you off. It was mildly inappropriate for Owen, especially a startling bedroom scene involving Mrs. Bates, who seems to have gone AWOL from Downton Abbey. But I guess you have to learn about oral sex somewhere and there are worse places than at an art house movie with your mom. I sure hope so.

And speaking of Mrs. Bates, I am sadly afflicted with Downton Abbey fever. It's going around and it's pathetic, but also harmless so I'm letting it rage. I daydream about the clothes, the clinking tea cups, the thwarted romances. Especially the thwarted romances. For a while, I had a mad crush on Bates. Mad in several senses of the word, as Bates is a paunchy, limping fiftyish valet, not the obvious choice for a crush, but, with all due respect to Cynthia Nixon, who chooses? Lately, however, the odd Bates crush has been replaced by unswerving devotion to Matthew. Which requires no explanation. I am now ready to tape his photograph to the inside of my locker. But I don't want him for me! Selflessly, I want him for Mary the same way I wanted Jim for Pam, Tim Riggins for Lyla, Jordan Catalano for Angela, Sawyer for Kate, the Sheriff for the Widow. And on and on.

Think of all the books I could have read.

Downton Abbey is a ridiculous show. Highly recommend it.

Must go baste the pork and set the table. Full report tomorrow.

55 comments:

  1. I love that you're eating at every restaurant on Geary Blvd in order. Food-related goal lists are one of my favorite things. My husband Dave and I have a life-long project to eat at every sandwich joint in Sandwiches You Will Like http://www.wqed.org/tv/natl/sandwiches/

    ReplyDelete
  2. I could not agree with you more on Mourad. I took it home from the library and just myself not inspired or thinking yeah that sounds good but I am not making it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I confess I didn't love the outcome either, but am solidly on the fence.

    I just cannot take Kim Severson seriously as a food writer or a journalist after her stupid article about chefs and stoner cuisine. Or maybe it's the NYT I should be not taking seriously for having run it in the first place?

    I have Tender on my nightstand, and while I love Nigel Slater's writing and am always eager to read about cooking vegetables, the only thing I feel moved to try is that pumpkin scone, mostly because you wrote about it here.

    Having visited the former Milk Bar a few times, I'm not interested in making her desserts. Her stuff was always too sweet and too much for my taste, and I have a raging sweet tooth.

    What I do love is the whole Piglet concept and how much ire gets stirred up when people don't agree with the judges! Hilarious!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I don't know what's going to get me out of bed when the Piglet is over. I love it even when I don't agree with the results and I love the indignant comments, too.
    That pumpkin scone. I'd forgotten about that. It was so good with that sharp cheddar cheese. . .

    ReplyDelete
  5. I have Milk Bar at work (it belongs to my assistant), and I have browsed through it and made a few items. I don't like all the sugary cereal-infused stuff. It's trendy, gimmicky and hipstery, doesn't seem honest, and falls into the category of "fake food" in my book. And yes, way too sweet! But perhaps I haven't given it a fair shake. One pastry book I recommend is called The Sweet Life (http://www.amazon.com/Sweet-Life-Desserts-Chanterelle/dp/0821257447) I just made the chocolate pot de creme for dessert last night, and it was phenomenal (my version of it is here http://nougatt.wordpress.com/2012/02/05/chocolate-caramel-pot-de-creme/). I ate one bite.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Re: Bates, just saw his pics in "real" life, and I can see how a crush could happen...
    http://www.papermag.com/2012/02/downton_abbey_stars_out_of_cos.php

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  7. I wanted Sawyer for Kate in that I thought they deserved each other. My little sister just ended her Christian Bale crush for "that guy on Lost," and I was like, "PLEASE tell me you mean Jack."

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  8. Re: Downton Abbey "real life" pictures. Wow. It's amazing how fantastic the transformation is for so many characters. Unfortunately, I am addicted to that show as well. I just saw that season 2 is available on DVD. One does not have to wait to watch it on TV. But, the anticipation is almost as good as the show!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Another fun fact about Matthew from Downton Abbey: The actor who plays him is actually one of the five judges of this year's Man Booker Prize. He's apparently an editor for an online literary journal in the U.K.

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  10. I made the Oeufs en Pot, which was frankly the only Joe Beef recipe I could wrap my head (and wallet) around, and I have to say they were amazing. Really worth the effort (and calories), which is more than I can say for the Endive Salad or Carrots with Honey that I made as well.

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  55. The anticipation is almost as good as the show!
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