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one night in Bangkok |
Unsurprisingly, I expected Bangkok to be a grimy fleshpot full of prostitutes and paunchy white male sex tourists on scooters and I'm afraid this is a common perception of the city among Americans. My father said, "When someone says he's going to Bangkok, you almost feel compelled to smirk." Yesterday, I ran into a friend and told her where I'd been and her eyes lit up and she asked me about a sordid Thai sex performance she'd heard about.
In fact, I hadn't caught one of those shows and couldn't provide any details unavailable on wikipedia. I explained, instead, that despite its reputation, Bangkok has a lot more to offer than the sex trade. SO MUCH MORE. I want to shout that because the SO MUCH MORE came as a complete surprise. Isabel and I almost didn't go to Bangkok on account of what I'd heard and read, but it turned out to be the clear high point of our trip.
The word I'd use to describe Bangkok is layered. We stayed in a small hotel with lush gardens, a pool, and a resident cat. In the morning we sat on the patio drinking coffee, peeling rambutans, and listening to the neighborhood chickens. It was idyllic. Step out the front gate, though, and we were in the middle of a huge, chaotic metropolis, just a short walk from the Skytrain, tantalizing street food, movie theaters, malls full of fabulous clothes by Thai designers, and people, people, people. It was like midtown Manhattan, but moreso. With chickens.
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Nahm restaurant in Bangkok is worth every baht. I didn't take pictures of the food because everyone else was taking pictures of the food and they looked silly, but in hindsight, I was the silly one. I wish I had pictures! |
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We tried everything except insects and deep-fried chicken heads. It was almost all delicious. |
In Bangkok, you get the high and the low and both are really, really terrific. What I hadn't realized was just how much of the high there is in that city. We stumbled on galleries and artisanal coffee shops and fancy gelato and fascinating Thai designer clothes that I would have coveted desperately were I twenty years younger and twenty pounds thinner. I'm betraying myself as a complete ignoramus because I hadn't expected any of this.
What I'd expected was sleaze. In three days of nonstop walking in Bangkok, we saw school kids in uniforms, colorful Chinese temples, teak houses, ex-pats, coconut vendors, tuk tuk drivers, a grisly museum that you should avoid at all costs, women exhorting us to get our feet massaged, artists, fashionistas, clotheslines, mysterious back alleys, and a lot of nice, everyday people who helped us read our map and cross the street without getting killed. What I didn't see was a single man, woman, or child whom I could positively identify as a sex worker.
I know they're there. But if you want to find them you might have to look harder than you think.
We loved Bangkok.
1. This makes me want to visit Bangkok, which I never expected to say.
ReplyDelete2. Thank you for dropping the song from "Chess." It's on my running playlist and I love it a ridiculous amount. "I'd let you watch, I would invite you / But the queens we use would not excite you."
That song is ridiculously catchy.
DeleteWonderful description - any chance of seeing some/more of your pictures?
ReplyDeleteSo few pictures!
DeleteI spent just a few days in Bangkok en route to India some years ago, but your post makes me want to go back. That trip was complicated because I was traveling with a whole mess of study abroad students (as a leader, not a student, which makes a big difference!) and then the day after we left Bangkok and arrived in Calcutta, 9/11 happened. (On my birthday, too.) So, Bangkok gets lost in all of that. I mostly remember those massive reclining Buddhas at one of the temple complexes. It may be time for another trip . . .
ReplyDeleteOh, you should go back. That sounds like a terrible confluence of events -- Calcutta, 9/11, birthday.
DeleteWe didn't intentionally visit any temples in Bangkok. We made up for it everywhere else . . .
I think I'd like that museum -- not sure that reflects well on me. But mostly, do you have any of David Thompson's cookbooks, and if so, what did you think?
ReplyDeleteI thought I'd like that museum, but it gave me chills. I do have David Thompson's books and they've been too daunting for me. I have to revisit now.
DeleteUgh! I thought the fetus wall at the Museum of Science and Industry was disturbing...
ReplyDeleteWere there Thai diners in Nahm?
Hard to tell if there were Thai diners at Nahm. There were not that many Westerners -- the crowd was mostly Asian, but I don't know where they came from in Asia. I do know the people at the next table were Japanese.
DeleteI read the first few of Burdett's Bangkok mysteries and finally had to stop, they were so disturbing. Your account has restored it's allure for me.
ReplyDeleteVery disturbing books.
DeleteYours is the only blog I read regularly, so though I don't often comment, I hope you know there are many who read. Would you explain why you have titled the non-cookbook reviews "18 minute reviews?" Where does 18 minutes come from?
ReplyDeleteI tried to answer this in another comment -- no real reason. Because the number sounded cute or it seemed like the right amount of time to devote to a capsule review. But I really can't write something I'm willing to share in 18 minutes so I don't keep it up.
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