Friday, November 02, 2012

Fiddling while Jersey floods

shards of toffee on whipped cream on cake
What a disastrous week. You Easterners have been very brave! Cookbooks have seldom seemed more trivial.

I decided to keep cooking from Burma because if I stop I might never go back. Last weekend, I served Naomi Duguid's sweet-tart pork belly stew which is made by braising this unctuous, inexpensive cut with lemongrass, shallots, garlic, and dried hibiscus blossoms. The wrinkled blackish hibiscus blossoms serve, in Duguid's words, as a "souring agent" and the stew they soured was unlike anything in my gastronomic frame of reference. You expect braised pork to be rich, fatty, and mellow, but this meat was rich, fatty, and tart. As Michael Ruhlman writes in Twenty (more on that shortly), acid is typically used to "brighten" flavors, and I've had New Mexican pork dishes where tomatillos did just that. But the flavors in this Burmese stew needed no brightening. They needed dulling.

I'm not saying the stew was unappetizing. Not at all. We ate it with modest gusto. But it was just too confusing for our non-Burmese palates and I probably won't make it again.
lots of mystery stems and flowers in there
Nor will I go back to Duguid's smoky Napa cabbage, a pallid, watery stir fry. Duguid writes that oyster sauce gives the dish a "smoky undernote" but I didn't pick it up. Not bad, not good, not worth talking about at length. Maybe I'm just not that into cabbage; I would always rather eat kale.

Monday night, I served Duguid's saucy beef and potatoes. To make this, you fry some shallots (of course) and ginger in hot oil, add cubed potatoes and brown them, add water and simmer until the potatoes are soft, add ground beef, spices, and chopped tomatoes, cook, cook, cook, and serve. It's Burmese hamburger hash, wicked ugly, but delicious and like everything I've cooked from the book so far, quick and easy.

That's all I have to say about lovely Burma for now, but I have so much to say about Ruhlman's Twenty I think I might burst. Twenty won prestigious awards and clearly speaks to a lot of readers and you might be one of them. I am not. I can't help it! It's just not in my nature to like this kind of book. I read Ruhlman's Twenty cover-to-cover and found it grandiose, inexact, and frustrating. Michael Ruhlman argues that cooking depends on twenty elegant techniques, while I think cooking is about ten thousand details. This might be the unbridgeable rift between lumper and splitter.

I'll briefly make my case and then cut to the happy ending.

Twenty is the somewhat arbitrary number of techniques that Ruhlman believes are essential to cooking well.  He's pretty loose with his definition of "technique," and includes ingredients, like salt, eggs, and sugar, because understanding how to manipulate these ingredients entails learning techniques.  For instance the chapter on eggs covers hard-boiling eggs, scrambling eggs (in a double boiler and reportedly delicious), shirring, whipping up mayonnaise, putting egg whites in cocktails, and a short disquisition on custards. Technically speaking, that's at least six techniques right there and you could argue that the very title of the book is misleading. But let's not.

According to Ruhlman, until you master his twenty techniques you're not going to get too far as a cook: "Without the culinary fundamentals nothing, nothing, of importance can be attempted. Classic chef arrogance and truth."

But once you have these culinary fundamentals down, the kitchen is, so to speak, your oyster: "There's virtually nothing you can't do."

Each essay (one per technique) is followed by recipes. I decided to bake Ruhlman's angel food cake, which is topped with whipped cream and homemade toffee because the photograph was so beautiful I wanted to tear it out and frame it. Maybe because I've baked dozens of angel food cakes, nothing in Ruhlman's essays on sugar, eggs, or batter, expanded my understanding of this cake. That's ok. But it was less ok that the recipe was imprecise and glitchy. Ruhlman never specifies what size pan to use nor does he explicitly warn against greasing the pan. In fact, he tells you to pour the batter into a "prepared pan." There are several ways you could interpret this, and a novice might take "prepared pan" to mean a greased pan, which would be the right guess for almost any cake except angel food. When I was learning to cook, I would have read that recipe, greased the pan, and ended up with an angel food brick.

I know this was a trivial slip, a forgivable editorial error, but it's an error that illustrates my point: You can master Ruhlman's twenty noble techniques, but bake your angel food cake in a greased pan and you're screwed. These countless quirky, puny, nettlesome details really do matter. A house needs a foundation, but it also needs doors, windows, and curtain rods.

On Sunday, I baked his cider vinegar tart. For years, I've been fascinated/repelled by the concept of vinegar pie, a mysterious dessert that regularly pops up in vintage American recipe collections, like my 1939 edition of Imogene Wolcott's New England Yankee Cookbook.

In the headnote Ruhlman writes, "Critical to the outcome of this simplest of all pies is the use of a good vinegar -- the tart is not worth making with bad vinegar. Otherwise it's better to use lemon juice!"

Given that good cider vinegar is "critical to the outcome of this simplest of all pies" I wanted to know what brand Ruhlman recommends. Bragg's, maybe? He doesn't say. Is organic better? Wood barrel aged? Unfiltered? Dark? Pale? Cloudy? Clear? Doesn't say. Short of arranging a cider vinegar tasting, does he have any advice? You have to dig for it, but in his essay on "acids" there's this pearl of wisdom: "You usually get what you pay for. A very cheap vinegar tastes that way. The best vinegars are delicious, not simply harshly acidic."

In other words, if you're not up for buying and tasting all the vinegars on the shelf, grab the most expensive one.

This non-answer was almost enough to make me resubscribe to Cook's Illustrated** right then and there so I could see the results of their 2006 cider vinegar tasting, which were hidden behind a paywall. Few people have spent more time pricing and testing supermarket foods than I have, and while you often get what you pay for, you just as often don't. Anyway, I refused to buy expensive cider vinegar  on faith and used the 365 cider vinegar we had in the house. The resulting tart, which I brought to my sister's house for dinner, was barely edible. Imagine a thick, yummy shortbread crust topped with cold, sweet, congealed vinegar.
Looks aren't everything.
If you absorb Ruhlman's breezy generalizations about the importance of acid in cooking (that it will enhance your cream soups, butterscotch sauce, and pulled pork) you will definitely become a slightly better cook. But your tarts are still going to taste like foot juice if you don't know what brand of cider vinegar to buy. Details, details, details. Cooking is all about the details and there are thousands of them.

Now I will tell you what I loved in the book: Ruhlman's method, borrowed from Harold McGee, of poaching eggs. This made the prettiest, tidiest eggs.

loveliness
Heat a saucepan of water. Crack your egg in a ramekin, slide the egg into a slotted spoon and let a little of the loose, watery white drain off (there will be more or less depending on the egg), then slip the egg back into the ramekin. When the water boils, turn down the heat and when the bubbles stop, slide the egg into the water and poach for 3-4 minutes. I will never make poached eggs any other way again.

*Here's exactly what Ruhlman says about angel food cake pans: Even if he had a tube pan, he writes in the headnote, he wouldn't use one because it's so hard to get angel food cake out of a tube pan. (Actually, it isn't hard at all if you have a tube pan with a removable bottom.) He prefers to use a springform pan and after he's poured the batter into the pan, he puts a pint glass in the middle to create the hole. The accompanying photographs illustrate the springform method. At the end of the headnote he writes, "If you prefer a tube pan, line the bottom with parchment/baking paper." There is no mention anywhere of preparations -- parchment? butter? butter and flour? -- for the springform pan in the headnote, but in the recipe he refers only to "the prepared pan." As I said, you could read this several ways. Also, for the record, there's no need to use parchment in the bottom of a tube pan with a removable bottom, although nothing bad will happen if you do.

**This morning I succumbed and bought a 14-day trial subscription to Cook's Illustrated (which I must promptly cancel), so I could access the results of their 2006 tasting of ten cider vinegars. The two top rated vinegars: Spectrum unfiltered (22 cents an ounce) and a French brand called Maille (24 cents per ounce.) White House vinegar (6 cents an ounce) was moderately well liked ("good balance of acidity") while Heinz (6 cents an ounce) was unpopular: "very acidic without much apple." The most expensive vinegar they tested was Verger Pierre Gringras ($1.19 per ounce): "It smelled 'awful' was 'stinky,' and imparted 'burnt, ashy flavors.'"

I might have to keep that subscription.

99 comments:

  1. This post is exactly why I'm a fan of your writing. Thank you!

    Also: I unreservedly love Cook's Illustrated and love tackling their overly-bossy recipes because they always work and they always taste great.

    I put Burma on my Christmas list... wise choice or no?

    ReplyDelete
  2. I too love Cook's but that said you have to watch "renovated" recipes. One I remember clearly took a breakfast casserole that took maybe 30 mins to prep and an hour to bake. The new and improved one took 4 hours to cook in a slow cooker. So basically you had to get up at 4am rather 7am. I did not see how this improved anything. As an add in comment, I am from the south and have tasted hundreds of vinegar pies, never liked any of them. Maybe an acquired taste.

    ReplyDelete
  3. My library has the three most recent years of Cook's Illustrated, so I wouldn't have been able to find these results for free, but some libraries might be able to come through in this situation.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Oh, Cook's Illustrated. So useful, yet so alienating. Did you see the NYT profile (now behind paywall) of Christopher Kimball, who sounds bizarre and contradictory and like someone you would not want to invite to dinner? It also details how the CI recipes get done, and though the end recipes have often impressed me, the description of how they get there kind of horrified me.

    Years ago I subscribed to Illustrated, Country and Country online. I kept getting reminders in the mail to re-up. I called, told them I wanted to have 3 subscriptions, renewed automatically each year at the same time, and never receive anything by mail again. They sputtered, refused, and then so did I. But I did cave in and re-subscribe to Cook's Country online--too many useful recipes.

    The angel food cake with whipped cream looks lovely.

    ReplyDelete
  5. The week was a guilty pleasure for us (though we were without power for 6 days with Irene, so we knew exactly how lucky we were this time). We lost power for about 90 minutes at the peak of the storm, put the air mattress on the ground level, and for the kids it was a grand adventure. It was a little more stressful for the parents, but we were so acutely conscious that we were creating memories, it inspired us to better behavior than might otherwise have happened. (Though I shouldn't speak for my husband--that's how it was for me.)

    The cider vinegar made me laugh. My aunt, who is a Cordon-Bleu trained chef, frequently declares the best salad dressing in the world to be a clove of garlic dropped in some Acme (Albertson's) cider vinegar and some olive oil. It's all she ever uses. I have wondered whether she feels the same since the store-brand stuff at Acme has changed labels and I wonder whether they changed suppliers or just labels.

    ReplyDelete
  6. I think Christopher Kimball is the food Barbara Kingsolver, in that I vehemently concur with what he says and feel like he's my soul mate, but then I see him interacting with other human beings and realize that he would be a fussy nag at a party and wouldn't even care how much we had in common because he's too busy lecturing me.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I have learned a lot from CI, but I subscribe intermittently. It is the dry chemistry lab of cooking, which is helpful but often tedious. As to Chris Kimball, who cares if he is socially challenged? I think he has created a niche which is uniquely useful to a lot of cooks. I want to like Ruhlman's books as well, but completely agree with your assessment. He reads like an antique recipe to me; a touch of that, a large bowl of that. Maybe others can produce success out of that, but I cannot. When I cook dinner, it is more important to me to produce something reasonably good than to have an adventure, which is exactly why I love your blog, Jennifer. You always seem up for adventure, and you produce so many good things to eat! I cook vicariously through you!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Foot juice. I laughed so hard my cat jumped off my lap.

    I love Cooks Illustrated and have a disorganized collection of about ten years'-worth of issues. I think it's worth every penny, but I think the online CI should be accessible to the print subscribers free of charge. All I want is to look up a recipe without having to go through all my back issues!

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  9. Thanks Mrs. Reese - you just lightened up an otherwise moderately bad day. I love your style, I love your description of M.Ruhlmann's new book and your mention of Cook's ILlu...

    ReplyDelete
  10. I love CI because I like to know why the heck I'm supposed to let the dough rest for 20 minutes. (My usual attitude is, "Pfft! What do THEY know? I'll just roll it out now!")

    But Kimball, with his folksy essay, annoys me. So I just don't read him. And I also get tired of reading the amazing tips they've collated from readers - things that EVERYONE already knows. Grr.

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